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The Noodle Village's ancestry is immediately apparent upon entry. It has the same practical, slightly Chinese decor as the Noodle House and, to my delight, the same highly visible kitchen glassed in at the end of the restaurant.

This ethic of the open kitchen is commendable as it goes a long way toward assuring diners that nothing untoward is occurring during the preparation of their food.

That which remains to be unseen at the Noodle village but contributes to its excellence is the noodle making mahinery with which they prepare preservative free, wheat based noodles daily. Without having to undergo the rigours of reconstitution, the noodles arrive on your plate firm yet pliant, having readily accepted the flavours of the surrounding ingredients.

We started with spicy ginger onion beef noodle soup ($6.95). The broth was dark and rich. Basking within were tender slices of beef, crisp red and green peppers, snow peas and bales of thin noodles all fired up by lots of peppery heat. This swarthy big bowl was readily devoured and told us that the excellence of the J&J was transferable.

Next, arriving in the Chinese fashion of made and laid, were the imperial prawns with cashews ($12.95). Holy doodle! It was good. Lots of crunchy prawns, onions, peppers and a profusion of cashews glistening in the spicy, vinegar-enlivened sauce.

Closely following this was the Shanghai thick noodle chow mein ($8.95). The noodles were long, round, thick strands that twined around sweet onions, tender little pieces of pork and bok choi in a dark brown oyster sauce and star anise treatment. It was this dish that the quality of the noodles really came to the fore.

The final arrival was the star of the night.

One of the evening's specials was plainly stated as green beans. This piqued our curiosity. I wanted to see if we would get a bowl of boiled vegetables, the sort that, as a child, you would engage in a battle of wills, neither of you allowed to leave the dinner table until you and those sullen legumes came to an understanding.

The big mound that was placed before us would be enough to make an eight-year-old forsake the french fry. Stir fried in a wok that one envisions as glowing white-hot, the beans were transformed into crispy-crunchy, beautiful deep green twigs.

The only additions to the beans were big chunks of almost blackened garlic and the odd flash of red chili pepper. It was all lacquered in a shining film of the blisteringly hot oil from which it had just been scooped and into which an audacious amount of salt had been tossed. Simple ingredients, complex skills.

If John's Noodle Village keeps serving food this good at these prices, expect to see the same lineups that form in front of the J&J. In the words of Sly Stone, it's a family affair.

--excerpt taken from the Times Colonist. Article written by Graham Duncan

One of the latest eateries in Victoria. It is the culmination of the owner's 30 year's experience in the restaurant business. His aim is to serve a select menu of south Chinese cuisine including a gourmet's choice of Sechwan dishes. Moreover accent is placed on the use of the freshest ingredients while the kitchen follows a regime of optimum pre-cooking preparation as well. This allows the food to go from the wok to one's table most readily and presented crisp (not overcooked) all with an awareness of excluding any excess oil, avoiding MSG, and other additives too. John is quite health conscious and manages the family run business accordingly. Employing his vast knowledge of Chinese cuisine, he has confidently opened this pleasant, tastefully decorated inexpensive cozy little corner in our capital. The famous wonton for example, takes on a different, more exciting nature here, thanks to a sophisticated preparation of the dumpling steeped in a delicate broth. The same may be said for a delicious chicken and vegetable dish served on a plate of fresh steamed rice. Their noodles are home made and authentic. This is a taste experience worth going for, and the loads of free parking makes it even easier.

--excerpt taken from Attractions.

Don't let the plain décor and dreary mall setting put you off. John Yong, former partner at stalwart J&J, offers the same house-made noodles and plump dumplings in stirfrys and hearty broths. The Szechuan green beans are a must order-flash fried and lashed with so much crispy garlic, chili and salt, it's hard not to lick the plate (or order another beer).

--from VANCOUVER MAGAZINE

2002 EAT! magazine - best new restaurant award

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